Mini Pooh - Free Handheld Amigurumi Pattern with 12 short helpful Videos!

Today on the blog I’ll be sharing a fun little Amigurumi crochet project for you all to enjoy & share! Two versions of he FULL pattern are listed below with helpful videos added to Youtube! The site contains advertisements to help keep it up and running. Remember gratitude goes a long way, so pay it forward & share this blog or give it a thumbs up if you like the pattern!

“The things that make me different are the things that make me. Me.” —Winnie-the-Pooh

Videos available on YouTube!


The Mini the Pooh pattern is my take on a handheld Whinnie the Pooh Amigurumi. We gave these little guys away for my Daughters 4th birthday as favors, & great news! - They were a huge hit in a tiny package each little girl got to open her very own gift!  It was designed to add to her little collection of beloved Amigurumi friends! As a helpful tool I have uploaded a few short videos that will help you make the Mini Pooh Pattern happen. They are all on my YouTube channel (which is slowly but surely getting a complete overhaul! Comments & suggestions are graciously welcomed — voice over eminent!) You can Subscribe here! & don’t forget to hit the bell for post notifications of future videos!


Mini Pooh

an #OtHM Original Pattern

For this project you will need:

1.    3.75mm Hook

2.    Worsted weight yarn: (body colour shown) Loops & threads Impeccable Yarn in Sunny Day

(optional) Worsted weight yarn: (sweater colour) Loops & threads Impeccable Yarn in Red Hot

3.    Embroidery Floss for the Mouth (a small amount in any colour you prefer – I used a Black)

4.    Scissors

5.  A darning needle (I use a curved upholstery needle)

6.  1 .5mm Safety Eye (for nose) & 2 .25mm Safety Eyes (for eyes)

7. Polyester Fiber fill

Excuse me but I just online shopped for you (pssst - you wont see if you have an ad blocker defending you) in the event that you’re missing anything you might need (eyes on those amazing vintage replica scissors as I type).

I DO NOT suggest buying the yarn listed below. It is under $10 in store at Michaels. This is just a visual reference so you can see it and take note of the vivid hues!

Both Safety eyes & Poly fill are bulk buys, but if you are a #makerforlife then you know I got you & you WILL use this up - sooner or later -

This of this as your craft list. A visual aid if you will of the supplies needed.

Making a purchase from an affiliate listing will result in no additional costs to you, however in the hopes of being honest & transparent with you I will receive a small commission as a result of your purchase.

I do enjoy a good shopping list that includes yarn, so your welcome!


Ch = chain stitches

NOTE: the Ch 1 @ the start of a new row

SC = single crochet

NOTE: the first SC of each row will work into the first space of each row unless noted otherwise. All sts (unless otherwise noted will be Single Crochet stitches.

SC INC= single crochet increase

NOTE: place 2 SC sts into the same (foundation) space this creates growth for the next row.

SLST = slip stitch

NOTE: SLST’s will be used to join each row & will create a seam (NOT indicated in pattern)   they will also be used for the mid tummy colour change!

BLO = back loop only.  

NOTE: Any sts worked into a Row 1 foundation chain will be worked in the BLO of those sts.

INV. DEC = invisible decrease (Video link)

NOTE: slip your hook into the (FLO) front loop only of the “INV.DEC” space then insert again (keeping yarn on hook) into THE NEXT space as well, YO & SLST through all 3 loops on your hook. This step creates neater decrease sts.

STS = stitches

FO = Fasten Off

NOTE: after the last slip stitch pull working yarn through loop & Cut a length for sewing later.  Pull your hook up with yarn on & the tail will come through. Tighten this & you have your knot at the end of each piece!

Special Instructions:

 This pattern will be worked in multiple pieces and then sewn together, it will also require special attention to contouring when weaving in long tails (or as I show, adding yarn using a darning needle & knot).

Head, Body, Ears (x2), Arms (x2), Legs (x2) & nose. Then you will pin and sew them together.  Unless other wise indicated any numbers in brackets will reference the total number of repeats. Ex. INV.DEC. (4)=4 invisible decreases.

Finishing features like the nose and eyes will be marked within the pattern however additional details like the cute puffy cheeks + mouth will be free handed (a few step-by-step how to videos will be provided on my YouTube channel to help you achieve this exact look!)

How to Start Tiny Amigurumi: A MC Alternate, my Ami Hack & where to place your first stitch of each round!

Snout Pattern

3.75 mm Crochet Hook & worsted weight yarn in yellow-orange.

(Row 1) Ch 2, work 6 BLO HDC sts into the second loop from the hook.

(6 sts)

Note: When you finish Row 1 insert your hook into the 2nd loop in the chain & slip stitch the two together (you can follow my how to start Amigurumi Video tutorial if you need help finding the hole.) Then insert your .5mm safety eye into the starting space in the middle.

This video tutorial is how I start almost of my pieces, so make sure you check it out & subscribe for new video content while you’re there!


Meet Mini Pooh

The Revised Edition

Head Pattern

3.75 mm Crochet Hook & worsted weight yarn in yellow-orange.

(Row 1) Ch 2, work 8 BLO SC sts into the second loop from the hook

(8 sts)

(Row 2) Ch 1, *SC INC, repeat from * to end

(16 sts)

(Row 3) Ch 1, *SC 2, SC INC, repeat from * to end

(21 sts)

(Row 4 - 6) Ch 1, SC 21 sts

(21 sts)

(Row 7) Ch 1, SC 5, INV.DEC (5), SC 4, INV.DEC.

(15 sts)

*NOTE: mark the sts indicated; right below these sts you will place the eyes (indicated in video)

 (Row 8) Ch 1, SC 4,*mark this stitch: INV.DEC, *mark the last stitch of this set: SC 4, INV.DEC, INV.DEC, SC 5

(13 sts)

(Row 9) Ch 1, SC 13

(13 sts)

*Video: Make sure to clip in the eyes here under the marked sts. They will point down to the correct places.

(Row 10) Ch 1, INV.DEC, SC 2, INV.DEC. (4),  

(8 sts)

*Video: stuff your Mini Pooh & finish it

(Row 11) Ch 1, INV.DEC. around (4), 

(4 sts)

Body Pattern

3.75 mm Crochet Hook & worsted weight yarn in yellow-orange.

(Row 1) Ch 2, work 8 BLO SC sts into the second loop from the hook

(8 sts)

(Row 2) Ch 1, *SC INC, repeat from * to end

(16 sts)

(Row 3 & 4) Ch 1, SC 16

(16 sts)

NOTE: If you want your ‘Mini Pooh’ to have a red shirt on ADD this row here if you don’t continue to work Row 5 and the rest of the pattern in the same body colour :)

(Shirt start Row): Remove the Yellow loop from your hook and then reinsert your hook from the back (inside) to the front (outside) then pull the last yellow loop into the project.

this will create a clean pronounced edge for your sweater colour change.

Pull a RED loop through your working loop & tighten the yellow stitch before double knotting the two yarns together inside of the body of the Amigurumi.
Ch 1, & work a SLST row into the BLO of Row 4. From here you will follow the pattern using the Red yarn, the only change will be working Row 5 in the BLO as well. It will create a definitive colour change. Check out the step by step Youtube video here!

(Row 5) Ch 1, INV.DEC, SC 14 sts

(15 sts)

(Row 6) Ch 1, SC 13, INV.DEC

(14 sts)

(Row 7) Ch 1, INV.DEC (2), SC 6, INV.DEC (2),

(10 sts)

(Row 8) Ch 1, SC 10

(10 sts)

(Row 9) Ch 1, SC 4. INV.DEC. SC 4

(9 sts)

*NOTE: Make sure to stuff your Amigurumi here (watch my video hack on how I push down fiber fill easily!)

(Row 10) Ch 1, SC, INV.DEC. (4),  

(5 sts)

Ear Pattern (x2)

3.75 mm Crochet Hook & worsted weight yarn in yellow-orange.

(Row 1) Ch 2, work 5 BLO SC sts into the second loop from the hook

(5 sts)

*NOTE: When you finish Row 1 slip stitch the last stitch to the first (you can follow my how to start Amigurumi Vidoe tutorial if you need help finding the hole.)  This SLST will create the curved, hollow ear we are looking for + give you a larger/ sturdier base to sew the ears to the head later.



Arm Pattern (x2)

3.75 mm Crochet Hook & worsted weight yarn in yellow-orange.

Note: The colour change starts after Row 3. Row 4 you pull a new working loop of red through & tie a double knot. Then work the rest of the pattern as normal (Row’s 4-6)

(Row 1) Ch 2, work 4 BLO SC sts into the second loop from the hook

(4 sts)

(Row 2 - 5) Ch 1, SC 4 sts

(4 sts)

Note: Don’t forget to count your rows! Don’t skip Row 2-5 please!

(Row 6) Ch 1, SC 3 & FO Note: this ‘extended’ row creates a ‘shoulder’ cap

(3 sts)

Check out the full video tutorial here! - -this is a plain changing colours row, with slightly jagged edges.

To hinder that ‘look’ or aesthetic, you would need a smaller hook and more than just a few stitches per row.

Leg Pattern (x2)

3.75 mm Crochet Hook & worsted weight yarn in yellow-orange.

Video link here (NOT a FULL walk through, just a small help with the pattern)

 (Row 1) Ch 2, in the second loop from the hook BLO SC 2, BLO HDC 3, BLO SC 2

(7 sts)

Note: Row 1 is the bottom of your foot, Row 2 will be working up from it. Check out the video here!

(Row 2) Ch 1,IN THE TWO BACK LOOPS SC 7 sts

(7 sts)

(Row 3) Ch 1, SC 1 INV.DEC. (2), SC 2

(5 sts)

(Row 4) Ch 1, SC INC, SC 3, SC INC

(7 sts)

(Row 5) Ch 1, SC INC, SC 5, SC INC

(9 sts)

(Row 6) Ch 1, SC INC, SC 2, INV.DEC. (2), SC 1, SC INC.

(9 sts)

*NOTE: Make sure to stuff your Amigurumi here

(Row 7) Ch 1, SC 4, INV.DEC, SC 3

(8 sts)

(Row 8) Ch 1, INV.DEC around (4)

(4 sts)

Finishing & Sewing

Modify Head:

For the rough draft of Pooh all I did was this:. [Video Link]

-      Sew a triangle (starting at the base of the head) into your head.

Tie a slip knot into the threaded yarn in the darning needle & sew through Row 1 & then the slip knot -in the center base.

- Sew up into the head from the bottom (starting sts) & grab a stitch in the inside corner of each eye - sew through each stitch in the nose & then back down to the starting point in the base & tie a double knot.

To Modify -written- (ADD CHEEKY CHEEKS):

For the Mini Pooh in the Red Sweater I went in a second time for even more definition. I filmed the process because I usually freehand details & wasn’t sure how to describe what I do to you without filming what I did step by step. (Get the How Contour Mini Pooh’s Face Video Here!)

·       Thread your darning needle & sew up from the bottom of the head & out of the side of the face just below the eye (on either side you will mirror this). Then sew into under the eye, diagonally (sewing inside for your SC sts is helpful for hiding the yarn strand.) then under the eye & into/ through the top of the snout.

I mirrored the sts on the other side of the face (repeated - in opposite - on the other side) before sewing down through the bottom of the head & double knotting the two strands together; once I had gotten them tight & had the cheeks puffing out.

·        Pull the loose ends of that knot into the Amigurumi & double knot again at the base of the head for stability. Weave these ends into the body.

Facial Details:

Watch the Video here!·      

  I used a black embroidery thread for this. Starting at the bottom of the head I sewed up through until my needle came out right where I wanted the Eyebrow to start.

·        I then sewed a diagonal line (about 3 sts away from the initial point & one row above(in either direction – (we need both eye brows).

·        From there I went back into the face & found the SAME opposite point in the face, where I let the embroidery floss come out.

·        Then I sewed back to the first point (creating only a mouth)

·        Push the needle out JUST ABOVE the nose, then slip your needle between the nose and the crochet.  You will want to create a straight line from the nose to the mouth


·        The snout is only 5 HDC sts & the safety eye will be pushed into the middle of it (as the nose) & secured before it is attached to the face.  Stuff your ‘tails’ into the back of the nose (you may need to cut them short to do this) then pin them onto the head & sew. Video here!

Attach Ears:

How to Pin Video here

How to Sew Video here

·        I made sure to place my ears close together & just behind the mid point (Or last row) of the head. I pinned them twice & then went around the seam with a piece of yellow-orange thread.

Sewing your base

Video link here: Assembly

Whenever you are sewing together two pieces of Amigurumi, it is VERY important to PIN these pieces together, SO many times that you can no longer move the two pieces (not even a wiggle). Follow this short pictographic, Instructional Schematic Video. You could say I was inspired by Ikea, OR I could tell you that I somehow deleted ALL of the footage I had shot of putting him together SO I drew it all out for you, step by step! I hope it isn’t too confusing! Please pause the video when in doubt!

Attaching Legs:

When I am finished with the legs I usually add a stitch or two at the top of the foot where the ankle starts.  I sew through there to the base of the foot, & back again.  This stitch will add structure & help it to not look deflated in future after washing. Tie a double knot in the bottom of the foot & weave the ends into the body.

This video may help

·        For best sewing results, flatten/ squish your stuffed leg so that the top of the hip is narrow & follows the same direction as the toes.

·        The top of the leg pattern (Hips) will be pinned up against Row 4 in the body & will be pinned, one on either side of the body.  Make sure when pinning that your toes are clearly defined and pointing out forward.

Attaching Arms:

·        The shoulders will line up with the last row of the body before the neck opening & be pinned one on either side. Pin these in place at least 2 times: once on top, once in the armpit. Remove the pins AS you sew through the project. Make sure to go through BOTH pieces of yarn, meaning, both pieces you plan to attach of your Amigurumi to create a seamless join.  If you leave one strand of yarn un-sewn there will be an obvious seam/ stitches, so make sure to sew down the visible or lumpy stitches.

Attaching Head:

·        The head Will need to be pinned very well into place also before it can be sewn down to the shoulders (to the point that it doesn’t move) watch my How to Pin & sew Amigurumi Video if you have never made Amigurumi before & are a complete beginner - absolutely NO shame in that, everyone starts somewhere!


For instructional videos on how to:

1. Pin and sew your Amigurumi

2. Starting in the BLO

3. Invisible decrease

4. Contournig Amigurumi

5. Simple embroidery mouth for Amigurumi

6. How to FO your Amigurumi

 Subscribe to my YouTube page! I’m Off the Hook Mamma on there too!

Thank you for taking the time to read through and produce my newest Amigurumi! I would love to see your finished creation and the colour/(s) you chose! When you share your finished makes on social media to please tag me! @Off.the.Hook.Mamma in your photos.  Including anything you create based off these designs or patterns

This pattern is intended for personal use (and may NOT be mass produced, promoted as someone else’s property or sold (in pattern form).

This pattern is not to be edited or sold by any person(s). I hope you’ll come back to visit #OtHM again to enjoy even more of my patterns - next time no hiccups - promise!


Thankful for your visit; grateful for your presence!