Hello and thank you for visiting my blog! Below I’ve written up the free DeadPool Amigurumi pattern, dedicated to my followers & you. I hope you have fun making him! I also have three detailed Yoututbe tutorials online to help you along your Amigurumi making journey (just scroll right to the bottom for the lineup)! Each part of the pattern is described in the videos, however each row and stitch count is not provided. I hope you can open both youtube & this pattern at the same time, working on both platforms & pausing your video as you go to make sure you get the best quality project make sure to follow my direction closely. Or if you are in the business of having fun just use this pattern as a guide! Please tag me in your social posts & share this blog with your friends!
DeadPool Amigurumi Pattern | OtHM original
For the Free video tutorials Scroll down to the bottom, or click the hyper links throughout the blog post!
Final measurements are 9.5” long by approx. 3” wide unless you use a different size needle & hook
For this project you will need:
1. 3.25mm Crochet Hook
2. Worsted weight yarn. I used Bernat Super Value Yarn in “Cherry Red”, “Black”, “White” & “Honey” Most yarn will be Red, scraps & small amounts of the others are necessary.
3. Darning needle
4. Scissors (the next steps are optional)
5. Craft Felt. I used Black and white (local Dollar store purchase)
6. Sewing Needle & Thread. I used Black and white.
Ch = chain stitches
SC = single crochet.
SCINC = single crochet increase (2 sts in one space.)
BLO = back loop only. (when starting a round/ tube shape: video)
2BLO = the TWO back loops only. Behind the back loop is the third loop or the 2nd back loop. Collect it too on those Rows for a more stable base.video
sts = stitches
SKST = Skip a stitch
SLST = slip stitch. (typically used in this application: video )
Inv.dec. = Invisible decrease, watch my video tutorial on how to here - instruction - Pull up the FLO in the next space, then the single crochet the multiple loops together in the second space from the hook (skipping the first FLO but keeping it on the loop for the SC). video
BS = Ball Stitch is comprised of, *entering the space, YO, pulling up the loop, then YO again & repeating this a total of 3 times from * entering the SAME SPACE each time (this creates the ball effect). You then pull the last YO through all of the loops on the hook & SLST them closed together. Return to the pattern after this.
inv.dec X2 = a shorter way of saying do this twice in a row.
FO = Fasten off, pull a SLST through to close off the piece/ detail.
NOTES: All colour changes & Pattern notes will be in red throughout the pattern.
Your choice of yarn will change the colour and sizes of the project. Thinner yarn will require a smaller hook & create a smaller final outcome. Larger yarn & bogger hook will do the same! The possibilities are endless with crochet!
For this pattern I will include instructions for crochet eyes, though I will also explain how to cut and sew felt together.
Warning! (I do not want to see y’all in trouble)
This pattern is intended as a gift from me to you, do not sell anything!
For this Pattern, I started from the bottom up. The base of one foot is worked first (if you have gauge issues, try doing both sides at the same time & know that it is just yarn, you can stretch it out a bit later on!) I worked NO sts between the legs, just went right for it & closed at the neck. I made the arms separately
Make two pieces & connect them. - Starting with Black yarn video
Row 1: Ch 2 & SC 8 into the BLO 2nd loop from the hook
Row 2: Ch 1, *SCINC, SC, repeat from * to end.
Direction Change -Working up side of the foot to ankle- video
Row 3: Ch 1, in the 2BLO’s SC 12 around.
Row 4: Ch 1, SKST, SC 5, inv.dec, SC 4,
Colour change to red: tie a red slip knot & pull it through the black working loop. Tighten the black but do not cut it off. Double knot these two strands together inside of the project. DO NOT CUT the black off yet! We will use it multiple times J Work on as normal in Red. video
Row 5: Ch 1, BLO SLST 10 sts around.
NOTE: To close Row 5 SLST under the first red loop before moving to Row 6. (click the link above to watch)
Row 6: Ch 1, SC 10, in the BLO of the RED braid
Row 7: Ch 1, SC 10
Colour change to black: pull a black loop through the working loop before working the next row. Tighten the red & work on as normal with black. video
Row 8: Ch 1, BLO SLST 10 sts around.
Row 9: Ch 1, SC 10, in the BLO of the BLACK braid (check the video)
Colour change to red: pull a red loop through the working loop before working the next row. Tighten the black & work on as normal with red.
Row 10: Ch 1, BLO SLST 10 sts around.
Row 11: Ch 1, SC 4, SCINC, SC 4 , SCINC
Row 12: Ch 1, SC 12
Row 13: Ch 1, SKST, SC 3, SCINC, SC, SCINC, SC, SCINC, SC 3.
Colour change to black:
Note: This Row is technically just a surface crochet SLST row through Row 13 & done before moving on to Row 15
Row 14: Pull up a black loop through the space between the first stitch and the starting chain, then repeat this SLST around each stitch of Row 13. FO & double knot inside once finished (but DO NOT pull this tight, just tie it. video
Colour change to red: pull a red loop through the first stitch space of Row 13 & work on as normal with red, ignoring the Black Row. (let the black sts float on top of Row 13 undisturbed)
Row 15: Ch 1, SC 4, SCINC, SC, SCINC, SC, SCINC, SC 3, inv.dec.
Row 16: Ch 1, SCINC, SC 3, SCINC, SC 5, SCINC, SC 4, SCINC, FO
The first leg you FO, the second leg you follow these steps:
Hip Connection video
NOTE: Make sure to stuff the legs at this point - firmly.
On the second leg DO NOT FO, instead insert the hook (while still holding the last stitch of Row 16 on it) to the left of the FO knot in leg #1. Continue on as Row 17 are both legs, attached as the hips.
Row 17: Ch 1, inv.dec X2, SC 13, inv.dec X2 – the last one will pull up a loop in both the right & left legs at once, inv.dec, SC 13, inv.dec X2.
Row 18: Ch 1, inv.dec X2, SC 12, inv.dec – this one will pull up a loop in both the right & left legs at once, SC 11, inv.dec. SKST.
Row 19: Ch 1, inv.dec, SC 11, inv.dec, SC 13.
Row 20: Ch 1, SKST, SC 11, inv.dec, SC 10, inv.dec.
Colour change to black: pull your hook out of your RED working loop then follow along below:
NOTE: This Row is a separately added surface crochet SLST Row that feeds over top of the stitches of Row 20 (covering them in a braid). It is complete and FO before moving on to Row 22.
Row 21: Pull up a black SLST loop through the space between the first stitch and the starting chain, then repeat this SLST around each SC stitch of Row 20. FO & double knot first tail to last (inside) once finished (but DO NOT pull this tight) just tie it.
Colour change to red: reinsert your hook into the red loop.
Row 22: Ch 1, SC 9, *inv.dec repeat from * 2 more times, SC 8.
Row 23-27: Ch 1, SC 20
Row 28: Ch 1, inv.dec, SC 8, inv.dec, SC 8.
Row 29-30: Ch 1, SC 18
Row 31: Ch 1, inv.dec, SC 16
Row 32: Ch 1, *inv.dec, SC 2, repeat from * 3 more times, SKST
NOTE: MAKE SURE TO STUFF FULLY HERE (use scissors - open are okay - don’t cut yourself please!)
Row 33: Ch 1, SC 2, inv.dec X2, SC, inv.dec X2, SC, FO
Instructions for both sides given separately. - Working with red yarn
Row 1: Ch 2 & SC 6 into the BLO 2nd loop from the hook video
Row 2-3: Ch 1, SC 6.
Row 4: Ch 2 & SC 3, BS, SC 2
NOTE: When you reach row 7 SLST a black band around row 6 like before.
Row 5-13: Ch 1, SC 6.
Row 14: Ch 1, SC 4.
NOTE: turning row
Row 15: Ch 1, SC 4.
NOTE: REPEAT ALL ROWS TO ROW 13 AGAIN FOR ARM #2 (OTHER HAND/ARM)
Row 14: Ch 3 & skip 3 sts, SC 4. (the last stitch will be JUST to the right of the start of the starting point) video
NOTE: turning row
Row 15: Ch 1, SC 4. FO.
NOTE: Pin FIRMLY to either side of the body (near the top) and sew in place.
Starting at the bottom of the head working upwards. - Working in Red Yarn video
Row 1: Ch 2 & SC 10 into the BLO 2nd loop from the hook
Row 2: Ch 1, *SC, SCINC, repeat from * around.
Row 3: Ch 1, *SCINC, SC, repeat from * around.
Row 4: Ch 1, *SC 2,SCINC, repeat from * around.
Row 5-7: Ch 1, *SC 30 around.
Row 8: Ch 1, SC 10, inv.dec, SC 2, SCINC, SC2, inv.dec, SC 11.
Row 9: Ch 1, SC 11, inv.dec, SCINC, SC, SCINC, SC, SCINC, inv.dec, SC 9.
Row 10: Ch 1, SC 10, inv.dec, SC 8, inv.dec, SC 8
Row 11: Ch 1, SC 12, *inv.dec, repeat from * 2 more times (NOTE: mark the middle decrease stitch – of the three- as ‘the nose’ front & center video ), SC 9, SCINC.
Row 12: Ch 1, SC 10, inv.dec, SC 4, inv.dec, SC 7, SCINC.
Row 13-14: Ch 1, SC 25
Row 15: Ch 1, *SC 4, inv.dec, repeat from *, SC.
Row 16: Ch 1, SCINC, SC 4, inv.dec, SC 6, inv.dec, SC 4, SCINC.
Row 17: Ch 1, SCINC, * SC 3, inv.dec, repeat from * 2 more times, then SC 3, SCINC.
NOTE: Stuff here! with scissors & alot! - intentionally push it towards the nose to make it stand out more!
Row 18: Ch 1, *SC 2, inv.dec, repeat from * 2 more times, SC 2 SCINC.
Row 19: Ch 1, SCINC, *inv.dec, repeat from * 6 more times, SCINC.
NOTE: TO FINISH THIS FULLY, you will need to pinch the top of the head closed so that it makes a ‘straight seam’. Then thread your darning needle & sew into the FLO of the two sts across from one another. First sew towards the front of the face, through each stitch, then sew back through the sts you just tightened towards the back of the head. Pull the flap down by pulling your darning needle & tie a double knot at the tip to secure it. Then weave your tail end in to the project. Pin the head to the body FIRMLY and sew in place. video
Side Bands for Body
Starting at the bottom working upwards in turning rows. - Working in Black Yarn video
Row 1: Ch 3 & SC 2 starting in the 2nd loop from the hook
Row 2-3: Ch 1, SC 2
Row 4: Ch 3, 2nd loop from the hook, SC 4 across to the end. Foundation SC 2 more sts to the end of the Row. NOTE: Foundation SC = *Pull up a loop in the base of your last stitch, pull a loop through that & then YO & pull a loop through both strands on the hook. Repeat from * once more.
Row 5: Ch 1, SC 6.
Row 6: surface SLST into the first two sts, then Ch 1, SC 2.
Row 7: Ch 1, SC 2
Row 8: Ch 8 & SLST to the other side of Row 7, zCh 1, SC 6, inv.dec.
Row 9: Ch 1, inv.dec, SC, SCINC, SC, inv.dec, SLST to Row 8.
NOTE: To fully finish this piece, you will need to make 2 of them & carefully weave in the ends, then sew them onto the body after pushing the arm through the open space. Pin in place & sew firmly.
Starting at the bottom of the head working upwards. video
Working in Red Yarn
Row 1: Ch 2 & SC 7 into the BLO 2nd loop from the hook
NOTE: To finish this accessory, you will need to embroider into it with three of your yarn colours. Black on both side, red down the middle & two small horizontal white lines. You will also have to sew it in place.
This is attached just below the black line. video
Working in Honey Yarn
Row 1: Ch 25 & SLST the first stitch to last stitch, creating a belt loop. Then Ch 1 & in the base of that Ch 1 stitch start your SC in the BLO for 25 sts.
NOTE: To finish this accessory, you will need to sew it onto the body & add the buckle on top.
This is attached just below the belt line.
Working in Honey Yarn video
Row 1: Ch 2 & SC 6 into the BLO 2nd loop from the hook
Row 2-3: Ch 1 & SC 6
Right & Left Eyes
These can be sewn into the face rather than making your own felt eyes. - Working in Black Yarn
(I will later record & upload a video for the crochet eyes for you if you leave a comment & request it)
Row 1: Ch 2 & insert 3 HDC sts into the BLO 2nd loop from the hook, Ch 3 more (ADD MARKER to the chain), add 3 SC sts to the center (where the HDC’s are)
Row 2: Ch 1 & SC through the middle point of the circle (starting point of Row1), HDC, HDCINC, HDC, SCINC (in the middle again), SC around the marked sts, CH1 & in the same base stitch, SCINC.
Row 1: Ch 2 & insert 3 HDC sts into the BLO 2nd loop from the hook, Ch 2, SC 3, Ch 1 (ADD MARKER to the chain)
Row 2: Ch 1 & SCINC through the middle point of the circle (starting point of Row1), HDCINC, HDCINC, SC (in the middle again), SCINC, SC 2, THEN SC, CH1, SC & in the same base stitch.
Working in white Yarn
Row 1: Ch 3 & SLST the first stitch to the last. FO
NOTE: To finish - Pull the white tails through the marked spaces of the right and left eyes. Pin them in the correct position you can sew them in place before sewing them onto your head!
For Felt eyes cut rough shapes out of black first & clean them up. Then cut two small tear drops out of white. Pin the white to the black, sew in place & go around the edge. Pin the whole eye to the head & do the same. Sew white felt with white thread & black felt with black thread. video
This is attached just below the belt line. - Working in Honey Yarn video
Row 1: Ch 35 sts & SLST the first stitch to last stitch, creating a closed loop. Then Cut yourself a regular Length tail & pull both tails through the BLO of the 18th stitch in the strap. This will create a small figure 8 to put DeadPools arms through. The connection (SLST attached to middle) will be placed center back & the swords will be placed over them.
The video is here - Work in black Yarn
Row 1: Ch 15 + 1 & turn. SC 15 into the BLO 2nd loop from the hook
Row 2: Ch 1, * insert your hook as normal, BUT THEN, lay your work flat, so that you are looking down at your project with the hook closest to you (coming up and out of the project). If you lay the hook flat it will point to your second insert of the stitch @ the bottom of the first stitch.
NOTE: In this case you are essentially crocheting OVER the last stitch, then second to last, then third, all the way across back to the beginning again. YO, Pull through the 5 loops on the hook & SLST to close the stitch. Repeat across from *
Row 2: Ch 1, *insert your hook into the last stitch you made, looking down at it. Laying your work flat without turning it you will YO & pull up a loop. You will be working “upside down”, so that you are looking down at your project with the stitches you want to enter in the opposite side. You are just adding YO’s & SC sts as reinforcement, encapsulating the previous Rows. NOTE: to correctly finish this you will need to BLOCK & GLUE OR STARCH them if you would prefer them to be ridged.
I hope you enjoy these free tutorials! If you ever need the videos to fun a little slower Youtube now has a feature for that! Click on the gear, then ‘playback speed’ & anything under 1 is slower with .25 being the slowest! I sincerely hope you find joy in making Amigurumi because I have so many planned for you!!
3 Video Youtube Video Tutorials!
Thank you for taking the time to support my art! Just you being here speaks volumes!
Lot’s of Love,